Author Archives: Jill Adler

Backcountry Magazine Gear Test 2013

The word’s been out for years. There’s no better place to host a ski test than Utah when you want assurances that you’ll have decent snow, reasonably priced amenities and easy access for your team.

All of the big boys have shown up this month- SKI, Skiing and Powder just finished demoing the sticks for 2013. Now, Backcountry Magazine, which also creates the gear guide for Outside Magazine, is hosting their own test junket up at Powder Mountain, Utah. Editor Drew Pogge (pronounced Poe-Gee) stashed his team of 50 in the town of Eden, busing them up to the Hidden Lake Lodge “headquarters” for five days of “work”.

[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfECvY2CVpE&w=560&h=315]

So How’s The Skiing? Have Three Forks Ranch All To Yourself

I’m home. Two and a half days of utter royal treatment and I nearly forget to mention the skiing itself. The pampering in the spa must have mushed my brain or something. But then a friend asked me today as I detoxed from my whirlwind jaunt to northwest Colorado, “So, was it any good?”; not, “How was the skiing” or “was it good” but was it any good,” implying that since Three Forks Ranch was so ultra deluxe it couldn’t possibly have good ski terrain. After all, Three Forks was originally constructed as a hunting and fly-fishing lodge.


The short answer is: Yes, the skiing is good. It’s as good as I’ve found with other cat operations (Park City Powder Cats, Powder Mountain, Grand Targhee) and, when you consider that the avalanche conditions were considerable and we had no beacons, it was damn good. We seemed to farm the same area of the 22-run mountain mostly because it would be impossible for the five of us to track it out. The Lodge can house up to 30 guests but not everyone will ski. They may snowshoe, or snowmobile, or ice fish, or relax in the infinity pool. You’re on your own time. You can even spend the whole day eating from one of the most delicious kitchens I’ve encountered in years.


If you decide after your facial that you want to ski, a guide can run you up to the snowcat on his snowmobile. Done skiing and want to snowtube? A snowmobile can meet the cat and take you back to the lodge. There’s no delay or inconvenience the way it is at some places because the Three Forks Mountain in the Sierra Madres is a stone’s throw from the Lodge.


Of course for me, the day was all about the powder. A normal snow year dumps about 400 inches in the Wyoming/Colorado area. The weak season took its toll here as well. I had been weeks since my last powder day. I went to bed seeing spots of dirt and woke up to a snowglobe. It had snowed all night and the slopes begged to be tracked.



The cuff-deep snow felt creamy in places and sugary in others. The wind on the peak compacted the open spaces but left enough loose to be skiable. We could feel bottom, however, as the day waned it went from breakable crust underneath six inches of fresh to feeling like a firm mattress under our skis.



The Lodge operates three snowcats. In the evening they’re out smoothing a handful of private runs just in case there are beginners who want to take a ride or the avalanche conditions warrant that you stay on-piste. We climbed inside the eight-person Piston Bully and charged up the ridge.

Owner David Pratt flew in a consultant from Deer Valley Resort to map out the trails last summer. Who better to direct construction than someone who understands what appeals to affluent intermediates? But there’s plenty to keep the experts smiling. The skilled guides (from Steamboat’s backcountry contingent) keep the conversation and the guests flowing.




We ventured through glades and intermediate slopes that spilled onto groomed beginner trails. Unlike with other snowcat operations, you truly get the sense that this is your hill. We could spot our line and ski it. We could run it top to bottom, nonstop, if we wanted. And we could say, “Let’s hit it again,” and actually hit it again. The guides were there to make sure we were safe but also got what we came for.


We worked five runs before lunch, left the gear on the cat and drove back over to the lodge for a spread of salad, chicken soup, cheeseburgers and fresh-made chocolate chip cookies. I was the only one to head back out after stuffing. Goody. We did four more laps of 1100 vertical in two hours. I could have gotten in more if Matt hadn’t shown up but I was happy to share. There’s no one getting aggro on a trip like this.




Inside the Igloo. The exterior is pure vintage homestead cabin. The interior, not.

At 4 p.m., it was time to park the cat, drop the gear in the “igloo” and head to the spa for my foot reflexology massage, hand paraffin treatment and margarita. The perfect end to a perfect day of private skiing that really was “that good.”




An Alta Spring

Stop scratching your head and saying you can’t believe it’s spring already. Daylight savings starts Sunday, March 11, so yes, spring is here. The sun will bake the fresh powder we just got, snow will start to slop up and the parties will get cranking.

Alta kicks off a first-ever spring “ski week” this April. “Alta in April” will run from April 6 – 13 for Utah locals and visitors. There are lodging specials, aprés-ski events, live music, an on-mountain ski scavenger hunt, a free demo day with next year’s skis, spring sunshine and more.

“Many skiers started skiing at Alta as kids, or in college or on a ski trip, resulting in life-long connection with Alta,” says Kylie North of the Alta Chamber. “Reconnecting with old skiing friends is the theme of this fun week of events during Alta in April.”

Alta in April kicks off with the annual Alta Gala on April 6 at La Caille restaurant in Cottonwood Heights near the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon, an annual fundraising event for three non-profits at Alta: the Alta Community Enrichment, Alta Historical Society, and Friends of Alta. Tickets cost $115 and can be purchased through www.altagala.org.


The demo day is sure to be one of the most popular events this spring. Take a pair of next year’s skis out for a spin by introducing yourself to one of the ski reps at the base of the Collins Lift. April 8 is family fun day with the traditional Easter egg hunt in the Albion Basin. Friends will have the opportunity to get together after skiing at 4 p.m. for organized après ski events on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Dust off your favorite pair of stretch pants and enter the stretch pant contest on Friday where prizes will be awarded for the best retro ski outfit.

www.discoveralta.com or call (801) 742-0101.

Home on the Three Forks Ranch Range

Two hundred thousand acres. A working cattle ranch near the border of Wyoming and Colorado, owned by St. Louis Cardinals co-owner David Pratt. The Three Forks Ranch puts the ‘X’ in extreme luxury.

The drive from Steamboat/Hayden airport to Three Forks Ranch took 75 minutes and by the time we hit the curvy, windy single lane part I was a wee bit carsick. Then, there it was and my stomach stopped dancing as my excitement climbed. I could have never imagined such elegance in the middle of nowhere until my hosts held open the brass and glass double doors to the $120 million mansion.


A three-night, all-inclusive stay costs more than $4k per person. But that includes roundtrip air, room, drinks, all spa treatments, the cat skiing, all other activities (snowmobiling, sledding, ice fishing, crosscountry skiing, snowshoeing, guides), meals, tax and gratuity. In the summer, the Lodge is a haven for elite hunters and flyfishermen. Now, in the winter, guests will have miles of snow-covered mountain terrain all to themselves for snowmobiling and snowcat skiing. Pratt made his money in pesticides before turning to this slice of heaven. In addition to building and owning the 35,000-square-foot Ranch and Spa, with its 15 palatial rooms, hand-carved European paneling, fireplaces, fresh orchids and mural-sized cowboy art, Pratt is the chairman and lead shareholder of Gander Mountain Co. an outdoor retail chain similar to Cabela’s.

My South Fork Suite for two nights comes with two large flatscreens and a fireplace.

I got in too late to ski but my appointment was ready for me in the spa. First, one of the most amazing massages I’ve ever had, followed by a facial with Phytomer products.

I had just enough time to shower and get upstairs for dinner by the fire with four other media types and our hosts from Fleishman-Hillard International Communications.

The lamb was everything you hope it will be and the bananas foster and ice cream added the exact touch of post-meal sweetness.

Coffee should arrive at my room by 6:30 a.m. so it’s time to curl up under my down comforter and say good night.

Snowcat Packing

The email popped into my inbox last week – “Press Trip Invite”. Love reading these. They come with an attached itinerary that makes Club Med looked like a snooze. I will read all about the place and daydream about the excursion. Then I decline.

Don’t get me wrong. Press trips are a travel writer’s bread and butter. Magazines and newspapers rarely pay expenses (websites, never) and if I’m going to pay to visit a place I’m on vacation like everyone else; not working. With press trips, we are invited on an all-expense paid mini-vacay so we can (honestly) report back on the experience (be it good or bad). There really is no faster way to get the word out about a place than to invite a group of experienced journalists to see for themselves. It’s cheaper for a company than advertising and, if you plan right, you can target a myriad of audiences from seniors and families to extreme athletes. And for us media people, a press trip is like a mini writers conference. I have yet to walk away from one without a story assignment. I went on a Lake Powell luxury houseboat excursion and wrote for two years for Trail Blazer Magazine- an RV print pub. But usually I stay home in the winter. The snow and skiing is always better in Utah and, invariably, if you do travel you get to hear reports of footage dumping in the Wasatch and many happy faceshots while you cruise groomers as the guides point to places that are great fun “when there’s snow.”

But this particular email was different. It had only one activity listed: SNOWCAT SKIING. Duh. I may be blond but I’m no dummy. I’ve had only one icky snowcat skiing experience (fat ski testing outside of Crested Butte, Colo., for SKI Magazine) and it was still something to boast to the grandkids about. We had pockets of windblown but for the most part everything was break-away crust and corral reef; near death-defying in places but ski athletes like Kristen Ulmer and Chris Anthony made shitty snow look sweet. It was fun, challenging, exciting and educational to be part of that team. I wasn’t missing anything back home.

photo courtesy Grand Targhee Cat Skiing

Here was the gist of the Three Forks Ranch email:

An ultra-exclusive, luxury ranch property celebrates its first-ever season of snowcat power skiing. We want to invite you on an all-inclusive (that’s airfare, too) press visit February 27 – 29.

I’ll give you 3 reasons why this place makes for a great story:

  1. There are only 15 guest rooms total, so there’s a max of 30 guests who could possibly be on the mountain, at the spa, in the dining room, etc while you’re there.
  2. There are no lift lines, because private guides transport skiers to the top of Three Forks Mountain – a pristine peak blanketed by an annual snowfall of 400-450 inches – via snowcats.
  3. Everything is included in your stay, and I mean everything… world-class cuisine, room, all the luxe spa treatments you heart desires, skiing, snowmobiling, sleigh riding, and anything else you can imagine doing on 200,000 private acres.

And then there was this video.

I busted out my High Sierra wheeled ski bag collecting dust in my attic, packed my Dynastar Paradises, the Leki poles with the fat baskets, a backpack for my camera, one ski outfit and baselayers that I could don the minute we hit the Ranch, a knit dress for dinner (after all it is a ‘luxury’ lodge and men are required to wear a collared shirt), Sorel Tofinos for sledding, Athleta tankini for the hottub and Hi-Tec Mocs for fast airport security and trekking to the spa, and I was good to go. The Langes, laptop, iPod, Canon, and Wowee speaker go in the wheelie carry-on and… DAMN I forgot my avalanche beacon. Just because you’re at a deluxe lodge does not mean you can’t die in the backcountry. Snowcat skiing is backcountry skiing. But I’m pretty sure they’ll have spares for us.

Oh, and for those of you who have no idea what snowcatting is, you need to. It’s like helicopter skiing without ever leaving the ground. You may not get as much vertical as you do in a chopper but the runs are untracked and wide open. The cat can roll in any weather and you get to warm up inside as you truck up to your next run. It’s also a lot less expensive than helicopter skiing.

So there you have it. My plane to Steamboat is about to board. Gotta run!

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