I woke up at 10 a.m. today. Don’t act surprised. I’m a night owl. And on top of that I’ve been on a whirlwind kayak binge in Bend, Ore. It was time to crash. I imagine this is what visitors to Park City feel when they go aggro over outdoor rec for three days in a row and have been sitting behind a desk for months leading up to the trip. Oh, don’t bag on me for not sitting behind a desk all my life. You get my meaning.
Rowing
I pulled into Tumalo Creek Canoe and Kayak shop at 5 p.m. Friday after a ten-hour drive from Utah…by myself. No, I haven’t taught the dog to steer yet. His paws won’t reach. The shop everything you could ask for in waterplay- SUPs, tubes, clothes, dog float coats, touring kayaks and whitewater kayak gear. They also do lessons and excursions to places around Bend. In fact, the shop sits on the Deschutes riverbank.
I had just enough time to unload my boat and the dog before the SheJump introductions and quick pool session to get us acquainted with paddling gear. SheJumps is a nonprofit based here in Utah but rockstar women from all stretches of the U.S. comprise its core. They are dedicated to growing female participation in outdoor sports by running women-specific events. It’s no easy task when most women are good at making excuses for not playing- kids, time, injuries, shopping, partner who whines. Most active women will confess that they got involved with_____ (fill in the blank with skiing, rockclimbing, canyoneering, kayaking, etc) because a guy took them. SheJumps doesn’t want you to wait for “some guy.” They offer basic, technical skills workshops to help women discover the outdoors on their own. The sports may sound extreme but they are perfectly approachable with knowledgeable caring guides, hosts and peers.
When other women and girls are ‘doing’, you don’t have the same excuses you’d make in a group of guys. ‘They’re acting crazy, they’re more experienced, I can’t do that.’ When your peers are surrounding you, you think, “I can do that too.” Whether it’s a bike maintenance, avalanche or fly fishing clinic, the lessons come from nurturing supportive coaches.
The gaggle of six, mostly Oregon-based chicks was immediately introduced to our guides for the weekend- Mo, Lauren and Cait (our SheJumps representative). Cait had attended a women’s whitewater conference and wanted to bring a similar event to Bend. I had seen the Facebook post on SheJumps and immediately wanted in. What’s a 10-hour drive when you can have expert instruction from women, not men? Guys might take offense and think there’s no difference but when a girl’s about to cry out of frustration I need to hear “hang in there” rather than “suck it up”. I can only imagine what male kayakers would think after yesterday’s final day when one girl left her sprayskirt at the shop (a two-hour drive back), another lost the keys to the van and people were swimming right and left!
We spent Friday evening learning about gear and practicing bow rescues in a small portable pool.
Saturday, we paddled upstream (for hours) on the Deschutes to discuss proper kayak posture, paddle strokes and ferrying from one side of the river to the other. Because of my late nights, I barely had the energy for the tiny section of whitewater at the end of the day. Big mistake. All the other girls not only rocked it but relished in repeating the ferrying drills. My arms were jello so I watched.
Saturday’s drills were meant to prep us for the final day on the McKenzie River; a class II+ whitewater section. Boy, was I excited. I even tried to get more sleep….
Winter’s done. Spring’s here with all the sun, warm temps and freak snow storms. Now, the only thing to worry about are the conditions. Two weeks ago we got 10″ and it was hell. Fresh snow on top of spring snow that has slopped up in the heat the day before and froze at night before the storm. What we ski instructors call “variable” and “dust on crust”.
Volkswagen-sized ‘sketch’ bumps have found their way to the formerly soft powder paradise of the Wasatch Mountains in Utah. This spring, the snow on the bumps freezes overnight. If new heavy wet snow comes in that will stick to the frozen and pad it, great. If it’s light and dry, eww. How about a ton of fresh snow followed by sun and 50 degree temps? Double eww. Variable conditions are by definition erratic, inconsistent, irregular and unpredictable. Skiing them is like riding a bronc at a ProAm.
“Growing up in the Pacific Northwest I was raised on crud skiing,” says DECL (PSIA Division Education Clinic Leader) examiner and Aspen Ski Instructor Bonnie Maclaurin. “Honors were granted to those who could ring the most water out of their glove at the end of the day. Plastic bags were used for lining ski boots and logoed garbage bags were sold at ski areas for outer-layers when “clear flakes” dominated the weather forecast.
Yesterday, after a morning of free-skiing (at Aspen) and searching out powder stashes in the trees, I slowed down and took notice of how many people struggled. The snow was beginning to set up and the boot-top powder was definitely tracked out. They may have never ventured off of the groomed and now there is not a groomed run in sight.”
The more experienced skier skis everywhere- in bumps, in trees, in fresh powder, carving up fresh corduroy and capable of holding an edge on eastern boiler plate. However, even the pros can struggle with “frozen chicken heads” topped with half a foot of powder or the wet heavy “Sierra Cement” and “Cascade Crud”.
The masochistic ski instructor, training for an exam or trying to outdo the guy at the next locker, may search out the gnarliest most challenging conditions. But most of us locals sit it out- unless we have a lesson or friends in town.
If for some reason you find yourself somewhere between an epic powder day and spring corn here is some advice from a pro:
When snow conditions vary, start with a ski like the Nordica Enforcer or Atomic Vantage. Not too fat, not too skinny. Rarely less than 100mm at the waist with some sort of rocker or early rise in the tip for easy steering.
Be aware of the conditions on the mountain from the previous day. What runs were recently groomed? How soft or hard were the off-piste conditions? Ski the appropriate aspects based on sun exposure and daytime temps. Know when the snow has been through a freeze –thaw cycle, if it has been frozen solid for days, or never froze because the nights were warm. Many will approach a spring dump with first chair and a Clif Bar in the pocket then call it a day at 1:30 or 2 p.m. before the conditions become “mashed potatoes”.
HOP TO IT
For those who choose to ski in tough conditions or find themselves suddenly stuck in challenging snow here are some pointers. Skiing giant, choppy moguls, boiler plate ice or a combination of both can still be a science. Prepare yourself for variable conditions by practicing on a wide variety of trails, with different types and sizes of turns, taking different lines through the bumps and executing a variety of skiing tasks like hop turns. You won’t love practicing these but they can save your day in the steeps, a narrow chute and breakable crust (think crème Brules).
Try and make a tic-tac-toe game in the snow by jumping up and landing 90 degrees to the side or from a hockey stop back into the gravity line. Also making a porpoise type maneuver or dolphin turn. To accomplish this task you lever your hop off of the tail of the ski so that the tips leave the snow first then as the tail comes off the snow; the tip is directed back to the snow and guided back across the hill for the turn.
One of the biggest technical problems that skiers face in challenging conditions is that many are too heavy on their outside or downhill ski. From a fundamental standpoint in skiing, pressure moves from ski to ski and is directed to the outside ski of each turn. But each ski can end up in very different types or depths of snow when the conditions are variable and you want to be able to wrok both skis. If all of your weight is on just one, the other may be ripped out from under you.
SKIP THE EDGE
Another problem stems from how you release the edges of the skis and move from one turn to the next. The combination of tipping and twisting the skis need to be dialed in. A ‘racer’s edge’ is not so affective in variable conditions. The skier will lose the ability to twist the ski and guide it if there is too much edge too early in the turn. A flatter ski is better. You have time to adjust to the snow quality.
There is not one single way to release the edge of the skis from the snow. The hop turn helps when the skis get bogged down it mucky, heavy wet snow or breakable crusts. But it is exhausting. Use it when you’re totally stuck or you want a workout. Many skiers use an extension movement with the leg of the soon-to-be outside ski to move the hips into the fall line and flatten the downhill edge you’re already on. Trouble is you could wind up with a stem or wedge at the top of the turn that makes for a one-foot, then the other foot move and your skis (and you) get tossed in the variable snow.
Rather than solely extending the leg of the new outside ski you can focus on flexing the old outside ski leg while you continue to guide it through that arc and towards the new arc. This allows the legs time to match up in length through the arc. Pressure evens out between the two skis and we are better able to maintain equal pressure between the two skis. You could also add a more active retraction movement (by pulling up your knees or feet in the turn) for extra steeze.
Don’t get discouraged if you feel like you look like you’re hacking. Even the seasoned instructor or pro might not handle variable snow conditions 100 percent of the time and get bounced around. The difference is that they practice such a wide variety of turns, in so many different situations and with a quiver of movements that they can make it look smooth and easy. That doesn’t mean it’s fun.
GET OUT OF THE BACKSEAT
A final note on variable conditions- don’t lean back unless you’re trying to keep from getting bogged in heavy snow. Maintain balance over the feet and you’ll have a stable core- everything from the shoulder to the pelvis. Core stability protects your spine. It enables you to quickly correct your balance over the skis when you get rocked by snow conditions. With a solid core, you can make simple leg and feet adjustments as you move down the mountain without throwing your whole balance off. BTW, the flex at your hip should match the angle at your ankle joint for core stability.
VARIABLE CONDITIONS TAKE NO PRISONERS
Changes in temperature, precipitation, moisture content, sun, wind and human traffic all have an effect on your ski terrain. It could be an “anything goes” day. A client asked me if it was okay to wedge, she was under the impression that it was “bad” to do so. There are times when anything goes; for example, “when in doubt, stem it out”. Stem turns are old school but they might be the only thing that keeps you from falling or getting stuck in nasty conditions. The occasional punch to the sky with your outside hand, too, is another useful move when your feet are wearing cement shoes. Don’t worry we won’t tell. We’re too busy trying to make it look easy.
Bonnie Maclaurin is a PSIA Level 3 Ski Pro with the Ski and Snowboard Schools of Aspen Snowmass. She is also part of the PSIA Intermountain education staff for both Alpine and Children’s Specialist .
I’m going to give it to you straight: It doesn’t matter how much snow fell in the Wasatch 10 days ago. Those conditions are LONG GONE. Even Powderchasers hasn’t posted a report in over a week. The National Weather Service news for Little Cottonwood Canyon whines “temp trends will continue to climb markedly. High pressure will nose a little south/east through Sunday allowing an increasing/warming southwesterly flow aloft to develop…with temps spiking to between +5 and +7 C at 700mb Sunday afternoon.” NO BUENO. The snow sucks.
If we’re lucky we may see a slight bit of snow Tuesday – Friday but forecasters aren’t feeling confident and it could just turn into rain/mist. And so it’s more like summer in the mountains. Ski days are limited to east and south facing slopes after 10, moving to sunny everything else in the afternoon, done by 2 or 3 before everything turns to mush. It’s no wonder I’m seeing cyclists and rockclimbers everywhere. People are finding alternative ways to love March and the last week of winter.
I found myself doing the same. My friend Mark called and asked if I wanted to climb. I felt conflicted for all of about three minutes. I could sit around moping and wishing for winter or I could get outside and play a different way. Plus, my dog was getting fat and lazy. He needed out as well.
The weather was stellar- bluebird skies, warm sun and not a drop of snow or mud on the trail up to the Hard Wall in American Fork Canyon. I wore my new Kari Traa base layer as an outer layer and packed a puffy just in case the sun had me fooled. Nope, I could have worn a T-shirt.
It felt awkward climbing in March. Normally, I’m struggling on 5.9s around May. But after today, I find myself looking forward to climbing season. Shame on me. I promise to get out to Alta on Sunday but in the meantime, a stop into Momentum Climbing Gym may just be on the agenda for Saturday.
Longest weekend ever. I thought I would have more time to write- an entry a night maybe- but once we got moving there was no getting off this ride. We had just enough time for dinner at My Thai on the first full night in Pahrump before passing out. 6 a.m. came way too early. We hit the 30-minute drive back to Front Sight trying to summon the energy for another 12-hour day. With the ‘refresher’ out of the way, we moved onto setting up our own anchors and tying prussic knots and hitches.
We then practiced getting ourselves “unstuck” while hanging over a cinderblock wall using the knots and gear we had just learned about.
After lunch, we manned the belay stations. But today we got to lower ourselves instead of us getting lowered by the instructors. As the sun dropped behind that wall the excitement continued. Day 2 with VFI, now that we could self-belay, would be even more exciting.
Shannon kept us moving and safe despite the leg shaking and breathholding as I crossed wires and planks. It’s a shame that the team/trust building portion put on by VFI isn’t part of the daily Front Sight itinerary. It was so much fun and we definitely had down time during the day, waiting for teammates to finish their belays or rigging. We could have easily rotated through some of the obstacles. Plus, it wasn’t until the evening adventures that our classmates bonded; coaching and cheering each other on and figuring out together how best to maneuver through the sketchy sections.
All this new camaraderie was a good thing too considering Jenn up and bailed two days early for mysterious reasons I didn’t buy nor could really explain. Her excuse had something to do with going home to Boise for Thanksgiving on her parents’ dime rather than her own if she left on Sunday instead of Tuesday but it couldn’t possibly be about saving a couple hundred bucks when people pay thousands to attend that handgun class. Was a Tinder hookup calling? Four days of shooting was too exhausting? She didn’t want to be a third wheel when we got to Vegas? (We were meeting Ryan and Sage at the Luxor for the last two nights in Nevada.)
Anyway, my new FS buddy Drew carpooled with me in the morning; keeping me from feeling too angry at the abrupt and bewildering departure. The lure of the day’s Aussie and inverted belays didn’t hurt either.
All I can say is, “Woot!” Day three was also our last night in the obstacle course and the Ropes Tower loomed. We would be setting up six ropes, belaying each other and climbing to the top any which way. The night temps dropped noticeably. I couldn’t wait to start scrambling so I was the first to jump in. Up, up, up.
I recommend not doing this night if you have yet to conquer your fear of heights. There was no handholding. If I wasn’t freezing my ass off and desperate for a hot shower and meal, I would have tried Trent the Fireman’s route.
Drew and I ran for the car and drove the hour back to Vegas with the heater cranked, gossiping all the way. It was like having Jenn right then after all.
Talk about your last minute roadtrips! Can you say deciding to leave today, yesterday? Not only am I missing Sage’s first day of school this Monday (BAD MOMMY!) but her moment in the spotlight as she plays the role of “The Daughter” in Dr. Holiday on Sunday. But I have to go. It’s my last hurrah of the summer as well and, well, Ryan has things covered – despite his reluctance. He’s awesome. I couldn’t ask for a better partner. Seriously. We’re going on 12 years in April and he’s always there for me. I’m not saying we don’t have our moments but without them I’m pretty sure we wouldn’t have lasted this long.
I digress. My ‘hurrah’. I’m writing a travel piece on Bend, Oregon. I like to say that Bend is for folks who’ve never lived in Park City but my last visit was a summer-long sabbatical in 2002 while escaping from a slightly deranged boyfriend. I’m sure things have changed since then. Bend is a resort haven for Portlandians and Eugeners. With Smith Rock and Mt. Bachelor Ski Area bookending the town and a river running right through their central park, there’s no want for recreation.
Normally, I would begin prepping for a jaunt MUCH sooner than 24 hours but it didn’t come together until now. What can a girl do? SheJumps!
The non-profit org that was established to get girls outdoors is presenting a Women’s Whitewater Kayak course in partnership with Tumalo Creek Kayak and Canoe in Bend, Ore. They’re hosting a complete intro to the sport in just two and a half days. Cait Towse from SheJumps: “This event is going to be a great opportunity for women to get into a sport that often seems intimidating or impossible. With the support of fellow ladies we will empower and inspire each other to push pass our fears and develop skills we couldn’t imagine before. I can’t wait to teach and share this wonderful sport!”
Although I already know how to kayak, I broke my foot last August and prefer my re-entry to include a ton of handholding. The expert female instructors promise a safe, fun experience on the McKenzie or another Class II+ river. We’ll learn critical paddle skills, boat control, how to read moving water, and how to identify and safely negotiate river features like rocks, trees and rapids. I’m also making new friends that might be up for a last minute roadtrip the next time it happens. Plus, Jack Johnson and Dave Matthews are playing to a sold out crowd this weekend so I’m hoping someone will have a spare ticket.
If you are interested in learning more about SheJumps go to their website. I think there’s still room in the class if you don’t have any plans this weekend. Give them a shout.